V-Eats Modern Vegan, a meatless restaurant, is shaking up a time-honored Texas tradition with its menu of meatless roasts and meat-substitute sliders. But meat lovers in Dallas aren’t too pleased with a food critic’s surprisingly positive review of the restaurant’s vegan brisket. On Tuesday, the Dallas Observer’s food editor Beth Rankin visited the restaurant during its soft opening to try out the meatless brisket—a smoky, seitan-based loaf that’s served several ways at V-Eats. Rankin says she was skeptical at first but describes the chewy “brisket” as “smoky and moist” and ultimately admits that while it won’t “fool a pitmaster, but it is something I’d order again.”
Vegans and vegetarians still comprise a relatively small portion of the American public—but the trend to go meatless is on the rise giving way to a host of eateries around the country like V-Eats.
But after Rankin posted her review, which also includes a review of a fried breadfruit meant to replace chicken, many meat-lovers rallied against the mere idea of creating a brisket out of anything other than beef.
True meat lovers may never venture into tofu territory but if you’re willing it to give it a go, V-Eats Modern Vegan at Trinity Groves is now open to public.